| I like to have an incubator
set up prior to egg laying. I use the
Hovabator. Its fairly cheap and
keeps a constant temperature. An accurate digital max/min thermometer is
a must. It can take a few days to get the temperature right. Most
recommend the temperature to be set between 25°C (77°F) and 28°C (82°F).
There is some evidence that the lower temps produce more males and
higher temps.. .more females. If the temps are too high shell deformities
(such as extra scutes) will occur. In the past I have set the
temperature to 26.7°C (80°F) and got a mix of males and females without
deformities.
Before digging up the eggs, set up a disposable storage container big
enough to hold the eggs (you can see some examples below). Fill it half
way with moist vermiculite (available at garden centers). To moisten the
vermiculite , soak it then squeeze out any excess water. Drill many
holes in the lid.
I also use sphagnum moss, composted hay and dirt from the nest. The
most critical issue is maintaining high humidity. If the eggs dry out
they will start to collapse.
Once the eggs are laid, carefully dig them up being sure not to rotate
or flip them. I use a soft lead pencil to mark the date and weight on
the top of the egg. Bury it half way in the vermiculite and cover with a
damp piece of paper towel or some strands of damp sphagnum moss. Put the
lid on loosely. In the incubator I put a few open containers of water.
This helps keep the temps stable and helps with humidity. If all goes
well they should hatch in 60-90 days.
Between 2-4 weeks blood vessels may be visible when candling. Candling
is shining a bright light through the egg. Its best done in a dark room.
Be careful not to turn the egg.
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